Thursday, February 16, 2006

Iraq in December 2005

Terms and expressions :

I used the terms listed here in a sparse manner
throughout this BLOG. Please refer to this when
needed.

- the elections -
- majority Shiite party, ticket number: 555, name : Al-E'tilaf
- Alawi secular party, ticket number: 731
- majority Sunni party, ticket number: 618
- majority Kurds party, ticket number 730

- food
- Masgoof : grilled/smoked trout




Monday, Dec 12 2005. Baghdad, Iraq



The extreme sense of danger conveyed to me by friends and family before the start of this trip far exceeded what I had to listen to on my previous trips to Baghdad. Once there, the sense of being in Baghdad numbed all danger that was around me. I guess being at home one naturally feels safe even if the home is falling apart.

The 'normal' state in Baghdad is armed U.S. hired mercenaries from Southeast Asia or South America forming a welcoming committee at the airport, on the streets I found masked and armed Iraqi police riding trucks, waving machine guns in the air, stopping traffic for no apparent reason, and sometimes firing their machine guns in the air. I also found U.S. and Iraqi Army personnel riding HUMVs or Toyota pick-up trucks, or in tanks moving in the middle of the roads among hundreds of civilian cars, in a display of force that brings more concern than a feeling of being protected.

I found in and out electricity, redefining the term "ac/dc". 4 explosions were heard during my first day in Baghdad, no word on the news about the casualties. One current bomb rule is : if it sounds like a bomb and it is not covered in the news, it must be in the "safe and heavily protected" green zone.

Elections were coming up in 3 days and people were getting ready for a 3-4 day curfew. The overall expectations of the elections were that campaign 555 (Shiite majority) was going to win by a smaller margin than the year before. 48 hours before the elections news poured in about Sunni secular leaders being assassinated.

On the streets, Iraqis were trying to go on with life. Shops were open, sounds of generators roaring as I passed from street to street. Traffic is chaotic, traffic officers helplessly trying to direct cars while traffic lights are half flashing half broken. The odd/even traffic system is in place to reduce the traffic congestion. For those not familiar with this system, it means if the license plate number is even then the car is allowed to be on the roads on certain days of the week, while odd numbers are used on other days. Of course that is the theory and the reality is a light year away.

There is still a hint of sweetness and simplicity of the Iraqi spirit as it tries to survive and prepare for an unknown fate.






Tuesday, Dec 13th 2005. Baghdad Iraq.




Masked and armed men assassinated Mizher Al Delaymee a Sunni leader. He had spoken out against the backlash conducted by the new Iraqi army, the National Guard. He had also spoken of a potential civil war, which could be triggered by the Iraqi army policies. His relatives strongly believed that the National Guard militias took his life while he was campaigning in Al-Anbar (Province west of Iraq).

48 hours after arriving to Baghdad, and the effect of the curfew is starting to take a toll on me. The concept of being trapped inside the house because safety is not available is a harsh reality to experience. Some families in Baghdad have live-in guards who help keep an eye out on the house and help run errands especially the ones that involve being in crowded areas like shopping, getting gas, and the ones that require driving a long distance.

A childhood friend snuck out during the curfew and stopped by to visit with us today. it was great to see him despite the messages he carried of a hopeless situation and the expectations of more violence on the way.

Later that night we heard 4 large explosions followed by a series of machine gunfire thereby redefining the concept of a curfew. Are Iraqis hopeful for this instability to stop post elections on the 15th ? yes. Do Iraqis expect this hope to become a reality ? No. Far from it. Almost every one I spoke with expected the violence to increase and the situation to worsen.



Wednesday, Dec 14th 2005. Baghdad, Iraq.




The new democratic life style of house arrest and curfews is now irritating me. I am starting to understand it a little more, and further understand the reaction of Iraqis to this life style. Today, I woke up to the sound of sparse bullets being fired down the block from where I am staying, followed by police on loud speakers. I could not make out what was being said. It was strange not to wake up to the sounds of roosters mixed with traffic noise, and beautified by the sound of the Mosque prayers, which is what I remember as typical.

After a simple breakfast and a complex discussion with friends comparing life in Baghdad and life outside Baghdad. I decided to take a break from living in Baghdad and sink myself in helping my friend's children with their homework. After finishing that I tried to surf the Internet, however, between the waves of the electricity being off and on and the waves of bad Internet connections I stopped to keep what is left of my sanity.

The story of electricity is the one that gets the most coverage, after the security and safety story, thereby overshadowing the stories of garbage collection, heating gas availability, car gas availability, increased cost of living, declining levels of education at the schools, and many other attractive stories. As I am writing this, all of these basic services, which were working consistently before the war, are now working but in a sparse and random fashion, and on commission bases. We may still be reading about this in some of the news, or may have forgotten about them, or assumed that democracy has taken care of all of these services. The reality is the lack of these basic services handicaps the individual in all sense of the word.


This morning, when we were discussing the differences in life in Baghdad and other cities, we discussed education. the conversation was getting interesting where ideas were being transferred and the minds were kicking in. Then ... the electricity went off, and an amazing thing happened. My friend froze and had this blank look on her face. I asked "What's wrong ?" I was concerned, since electricity going out is a regular thing and I thought one would be used to it. 45 seconds later she responded saying I had to reschedule the entire set of house chores for the day since some of the chores require "Wattaneeya", translates to "National" however here it means electricity that is provided by the government, like vacuuming and washing clothes to mention a couple of chores.

This my friends, is the most simple and disgusting way of population control. Iraqi citizens, helplessly sitting in their homes, listening to bombs exploding, bullets being fired without control, a set of puppets with more loyalty to the US corrupt administration, the CIA, the Pentagon than to their country and their people. like rats, living under the protection of the occupier's insecure tunnels, and arguing about how to divide the benefits, and not the responsibilities, of ruling Iraq. On behalf of my friends and relatives enduring this life style, I would like to thank Mr. Bush and his administration for a job well undone.

So why no one has done any report on why electricity is so bad ? I think we should ask Oprah to look into this. Why Oprah ? It turns out her show comes on dish there and people love her, when there is electricity of course. Interestingly, the minister of electricity , imagine there is an entire ministry that does this, has publicly declared that "electricity is controlled by higher authorities than himself" and resigned shortly afterwards. I am certain he meant no other than the "Red, White, and Blue-the In God we trust" was/is behind this mess.

The day was spent in eating, discussing politics, watching a plethora of TV commercials for election candidates, which all had the same wonderful slogan : " United Iraq, Prosperous Iraq, Secure Iraq". Interestingly enough, only one party, 618, had "Free Iraq" in their slogan. much respect I have for them. I spent an hour or so trying to revive my math teaching skills to help my friend’s daughter understand how to derive the area of a triangle (1/2 x base x height) from the area of a rectangle.



Thursday, Dec 15th 2005. Baghdad, Iraq.




Election Day

Early this morning, around 7 AM, a huge explosion was heard, then another one a couple of hours after that. The resistance, now official when a year ago the parties in charge were refusing to recognize its existence, and not the insurgents has proved to be able to work even through continuous days of curfew. I am planning on accompanying my friends today as they make their way to the neighborhood’s voting center. Why vote ? I asked. A quick answer came in the form of a question : " What other options do we have ?".

Most of the political parties are neatly broken based on Sunni or Shiite. This must be what Mr. Bush meant when he announced, about 3 years ago, "mission is accomplished". Mission is : planting roots for endless future violence, and nurturing the right elements for a massive civil war.

My friends, a married Sunni and Shiite as a good number of Iraqis are, have a great concern that a non-secular government will win the elections. The reaction to the fact that 555 running ticket, Al-I'tilaf, which combines most of the Shiite parties is mixed with anger and fear. The secular Sunni parties are divided between those who do not mention the occupation and those who do. Naturally neither Kurdish parties nor the Shiite parties mention the occupation in their TV commercial campaigns. which I find interesting to say the least. The Iraqi family, that is financially capable, is tired, helpless, and waiting for their immigration papers to come through from Canada, US, Australia, or New Zealand. There is not even a decent grass-root national movement that is inspiring hope. The political seen is extremely polarized. The Arab Sunnis on one hand are dealing with the loss of central power and fighting to get it back. The Shiites have majority of power but internally disoriented and divided on many issues, which include, but not limited to, federalism, and balance of loyalty for Iraq and/or Iran. The Kurds, have some power and are internally divided on being a part of one unified Iraq or on creating their own quasi-independent Kurdish region. It is worth mentioning that none of the factions who seek unified Iraq in these three main groups represent a critical popular mass to make a difference. They are, however, the ones that have the control of their armed militias. On top of all that, most of the leaderships of these factions have demonstrated a healthy appetite for serving their own personal interests and increase their own personal wealth.

The fear of violence post elections is, as I mentioned, great. The source of the fear is whichever government comes in, there will be a massive backlash against those who do not agree with the government philosophically, and religiously. There will also be revenge taken against those who are/were in power. A Shiite friend who's relative was killed by a Sunni gang said that if he was a president for a day he would bomb the A'adamiyah, a Sunni concentrated area of Baghdad. On the other side, if a Sunni government takes control there will be a large retaliation against the Shiite power elements in the National Guard and other government positions that have been carrying out secret prisons and assassinations.

These divisions do not stop here, there is a backlash against the Kurds who helped destroy Falloujah. There will be backlashes between occupation supporters and non-supporters, and the list goes on. The main source of the fear is if these backlashes spill to the streets, no one, including the United States and the minority coalition armies, will be able to contain them.

I went to the election center near by, with my friends, to vote and watch the process. The location was a school situated in the middle of a side street. Both sides of the street were blocked by checkpoints allowing pedestrians only. The voter will then walk from the first checkpoint to the second checkpoint located about 30 feet away from the first check point towards the school. There, the voter gets body searched, all equipment that has cameras in them, like mobile phones are checked in with one of the guards. The voter reaches the gate of the school where some more guards present to visually inspect you and direct you to the voting room. We then walked through the school yard to one of three voting rooms. The voter then walks to the first station where her/his name is looked up, after that is verified a voting sheet is handed to the voter. The voter walks to a podium where he/she can fill the voting sheet, then the voter drops the sheet into the ballot box. The most interesting thing about the experience was the fear associated with the entire process. We constantly were looking over our shoulders anticipating some violent action. Once we exited the street there was some sense of relief.

I tried to vote, but my registration papers did not work for that center and I needed to go to a center further away. With the curfew in place, voting was no longer possible for me. The elections and the , supposedly, more active participation of the Sunnis seem to be the only hope Iraqis have today and the only "project" that we feel we can be responsible for. In a strange way, it is equal to a child deprived of x-mass gifts, looking forward to this year’s gift and hoping the gift would be functional. Later that evening we spent time talking and projecting the distribution of votes in the elections. 555, 618, Alawee is the current projected order. Boy were we off!.

One more day until the curfew is lifted, we have planned a fun activity for Saturday and I think I will be extending my trip for a couple of more days.



Friday, Dec 16th 2005. Baghdad, Iraq.




Today I woke up early to do some reading. The weather was windy and cloudy, as I was reading a ray of sunlight pierced through the window accompanied with sounds of a few bombs and bullets. Normally, a ray of sunlight on a cloudy day gives a sense of hope and it is associated with good and warm feeling. Not sure where to place the sounds of bombs and bullets in this picture.

I spent most of the day reading newspapers and searching for info on where and how reconstruction money is being spent and for signs of economical activities that could be one of the main remedies to help Iraq post invasion and in spite the occupation. Before my trip a friend had asked me to focus on the positive things that are keeping families together. I learned that the Iraqi family is going through what many families outside Iraq are going through plus some. The family I am staying with is facing many challenges.

First there seems to be less hope than 2 years ago, second, the minds of the husband and the wife are stuck in a vicious loop. I am sure somewhere in the world there is a "disorder" category for it. The loop is presented by the following main actions :

wake up, watch TV, eat lunch, watch TV, take a nap, wake up, watch TV, have dinner, watch TV, go to sleep. There is no work, no regular and worry-free socializing with others except via SMS, there is no travel, and basically no life as Iraqis used to know it.

This life style is fostering a deep sense of depression and desperation. When I tried to speak with them about the need to recognize the mental state they are in and the stronger need to try to combat it and the need to creatively avoid it, I received push backs. it is worth it, I feel, to expand on this a little more. Almost every Iraqi I know living in the United States is hungry to learn of a way where he or she can help improve the situation in Iraq in a strictly apolitical and humanitarian way. Every time I return to Iraq I am equipped with the hunger to help. So I try to observe and suggest. However these suggestions and observations as they are communicated to my friends and family living in Iraq are initially rejected, then categorized as dreamland approach, finally an initial acceptance is reached with a requirement to demonstrate. A simple example, I was speaking with my friend's wife about using the Internet to get recipes for new dishes. It did not take much to convince her that it is a doable and a 'cool' thing to do. When the time came to demonstrate how, the electricity decided to take an indefinite lunch break, there by shattering that simple effort. the obstacles grow from electricity and on. This clearly illustrated to me why it has become more natural to sit back and be passive about the situation and submitting to the current conditions and their dire consequences.



Saturday, Dec 17th 2005. Baghdad Iraq.




This morning the sweet sounds of Baghdad's chaotic bumper-to-bumper traffic overpowered any sound of shells or bombs. Today is the first day of freedom from the house arrest imposed, due to the elections. I took advantage of that and went to check out the shops in the city. We went to Al-Sina'a Street where most of the technology shops are. It was understandably not very crowded, and people were trying to go on with their daily routines as much as they possibly can. Talking to few shop owners the initial response to how things are was mixed, but quickly converged. One safe assumption to make on the initial response to the question "how are things?" is the general or polite one. The follow up questions easily scratch the surface and the complaints come pouring out, frustrations build up, and back to the homey state of depression. This was so sad that I stopped striking conversations after the second shop. In addition to that, the spirit of "freedom of speech" seemed more constrained than my first visit in 2003. I attributed that to the fact that the average person is now as afraid, if not more afraid, from indiscriminately talking about the current situation due to the new democratic practices by the current powers. It seems that even the initial perceived freedom people exercised in the form of open government criticism has now vanished.

After visiting the shops we went and picked up some groceries for dinner. The grocery shop we went to was considered one of the nicest ones and most expensive by current standards in Baghdad today. However, it was sad to see the Grand Canyon like contrast between the inside of the shop and outside the shop. As we were entering the shop I could not help notice a large open trash container covered with an inch thick of moving grey and black bodies. Closer, but not too close, inspection revealed the inch thick layer to be of the famous Iraqi flies, the most persistent flies on earth. This immediately made me question the sense of ownership that we Iraqis, living in Iraq, have of the country. I admit it is probably a weak and desperate generalization to make, however the sharp contrast in the images immediately made me question the shop owner commitment to his immediate shop surroundings. With the infrastructure still waking up from the destruction served by the occupiers the local people have yet to develop a sense of ownership.

For lunch we had beautiful and exciting plans. We were going to an area called "AL-GRAY'AT" to experience one of the most famous dishes in Baghdad, the Masgoof. I choose not to describe this famous dish because I will quickly develop a severe case of Masgoof withdrawal and have to catch the next plane back to Iraq. The drive was cautious. The area we were in is known to have some elements of the resistance. The restaurant is situated on Dijla (one of the rivers that makes mesopotamia). The fact that we were in a family mode with children made the locals less nervous but still not at complete ease. We ordered two fish plus appetizers. The famous warm Arabic bread was brought out covering the freshly grilled fish soaked in tangy tomato sauce and the appetite gates were wide open at that point.

We wrapped up our feast before sunset in order to avoid the possibilities of getting stuck in an unpleasent situation. On the way home we can see the long lines of cars forming around the gas stations in various shapes and lengths. Once home, the topic of going to "AL-GRAY'AT" was quickly communicated in a festive mood to friends and relatives. Our quest to taste what we have known as normal in the midst of this current democratic mess has been accomplished.

At night, with full stomachs we gathered enough energy to talk more politics and possible solutions. My friends interestingly think that federalism , once implemented will bring more peace to Baghdad. the justification was that the focus of the resistance will be shifted to the new centers of power. Will this really be the case ? I have doubts. As we were going back and forth in our discussions, the electricity went off signaling the end of the "election electricity schedule", not that there is any formal electricity schedule that gets published, and the return of the "guess when the electricity will be on schedule". At such late hours of the night, 1 am, the owner of the generator does not turn the generator on. So we continued our conversations in the dark. I started talking again about the need to be more positive and provide positive examples to the children at these hard times. I think a breakthrough was made, I planted some seeds of thought in my friend’s head. Allah Kareem.



Sunday, Dec 18th 2005. Baghdad Iraq.



Today I am back on the streets. I have two appointments and we have plans to go out for lunch. Imagine some attempt at reclaiming a normal life style. With the continuous sirens taking over the airwaves I am having my doubts about the lunch plans.

I am noticing a strange effect since arriving here. Due to the 5-day curfew, I saw the United States military presence once on my way from the airport to the city. Not seeing the US military in the high frequency I experienced during my past two visits, has shifted my focus from the illegal occupation to the state of Iraq, and the miserable conditions under which the Iraqis are living under today. I view this as a reconfirmation of the opinion that the invading US forces should not be in the cities and should be more concerned with securing the borders of this fragile country.

The elections results will not be formally posted for about 2-3 weeks from today. Every one was trying to find out whom their friends voted for. It reminded me of my elementary school mid term exams, where my friends and I used to compare answers once the test was over to guess what our scores would be. Of course the difference here is not what grade will the voters get, but how their lives will be affected because they are of a certain religion or belief. The family I am staying with, in narrow-minded and rigid US lingo, is a Sunni and Shiite couple. Most of their circle of friends voted for Alawi or 618 list. So the general expectations, based on the higher Sunni participation in this election, were that the percentage gained by the Shiite and the Kurds would be lower than the last elections. The other expectation was that the Sunnis list and Alawi's list would represent a critical minority in the Parliament. Naturally, all day and night the media were broadcasting the complaints of the Sunni and Alawi parties about unfair voting practices which ranged from burning down Sunni voting centers, not providing enough voting polls for Sunni areas, to intimidations of voters in the Kurdish and Shiite areas.

The mood here is wildly swinging from hope to desperation. The current government headed by Al-Ja'fari is known to have done very little towards stabilizing the situation and a lot towards overlooking the mismanagement of the country's affairs. This is creating jitters of fear and anxiety, which could climax into violence if the same government stays in power.

It is sad and disheartening to see the results of the United States foreign policy, which by theory was supposed to promote democracy to protect the rights of the minorities, take a reverse role where the majority is taking this opportunity to take revenge and persecute minorities. This is proving that the democracy and hope carrot Mr. Bush dangled in front of his people to get approval to invade and stay in Iraq is nothing but a lie.

Today, I met with Dr. Miriam who works for the ministry of health (AKA the black market gold mine). I was able to confirm earlier stories and reports of truly sick practices and conditions, which I listed a few below, in the current health sector in Iraq :

1- blood that was donated to hospitals is being sold on the black market instead of giving it to the patients.
2- severe lack of equipment in intensive care units
3- closing down of entire sections of hospitals due to lack of staff and equipment.
4- accounting practices that make ENRON seems like the general accounting office. and many more issues that I am overlooking here and hopefully will add later.

The day ended nicely with the , now usual, sound of mortar shells falling on the green zone.




Monday, Dec 19th 2005. Baghdad Iraq.




In this chaos there is order. the order is represented by the regular sounds of low flying military helicopters, mortar shells (most popular), car bombs, and sounds of siren.

Today preliminary results of the elections were announced on TV, with the Shiite majority winning by large margins in most of central and south provinces. The early expectations of the voting distribution were shattered. This election had more Sunni participation, less Shiite voting, yet the numbers still came out with margins of difference for the Shiite larger than the last elections where most Sunnis did not take part in. In addition to that the huge jump in voting violations, reported violations went from 190 on the eve of Election Day to 1000 today. Both of these elements added to the already tense situation and sent waves of anger and discontent. Through many conversations I had with Sunni friends who expressed their fear of a civil war erupting if the preliminary results were not sanitized. Just for the record, the results of the last two voting events , the first parliament election, and voting on the constitution, were heavily sanitized to demonstrate a positive image of the US roll in the region.

In a conversation with a friend from west of Iraq today, he explained the mood in that region was so tense that people "had their hands on the trigger" waiting for action to break out. the Shiite Sunni couple that I am spending much time with is now speaking in a language which I did not hear a year ago. There is a clear and angry reference to their religious backgrounds as they discuss politics with each other. Though this couple is a very loving couple, educated, and aware, I could only imagine the effect of such dynamics on uneducated and unaware mixed families in the rest of the country. The news of the Kurdish militia (Peshmurga) recalling their elements from the National Guard while constantly confirming their intentions to declare an independent state, and of the claims of AL-Badr's militia controlling tanks hidden in the date palm farms in Karbala awaiting orders to shell Baghdad. All of this, is painting a very dark and grim picture of the near future in Iraq.

Later this morning I went with my friend to the elementary school where her daughter is attending. I was hoping that I can take permission to interview some students for a media project. Unfortunately, I was given a long application that required the approval of half of the ministry of education, which quickly killed that effort. while I was at the school I chatted with my sister's teacher, who is now the assistant to the principal. She expressed her discontent and sadness about what is taking place to the education system. For example, the textbooks that schools were supposed to get 2 years ago, are still on order. The reconstruction of the school was still incomplete. The education level of the teachers and their training is in regress. This school in 1972 was a catholic school and was run by nuns. After the break out of the war in 2003, the school tried to gain its old status as a private school. In 2003 there was a lot of hope that this was going to take place. now, the issue has been tabled indefinitely after the ministry of education introduced impossible processes to follow, which discouraged the administration of the school. I mentioned before , on the 14th of December, that I was helping my friend's daughter learn how to find the area of a triangle (which is 1/2 x base x height). The next day, at lunch, she anxiously told me that the rule I taught her was incorrect. Of course, choking on my food, I asked her to bring the homework to see what the instructor has told her. She brought the homework and to my great disappointment, I discovered that the basic rules of geometry no longer applied in that school. The teacher had evolved her own version of geometry. It is of great sadness to see the same system that taught me geometry and equipped me with the tools and the knowledge, to the level where I was pointing out errors in my instructor's geometry solutions at ISU, reach this state. I must also say that this means the room to help and give back is immense and every little area of life in Iraq is in need of attention and caring. In retrospect this great room of potential need is only stemming out of the great destruction imposed by the democraticze-on-our-terms-or-else machine made in the USA.




Tue/Wed, Dec 20th/21st 2005. Baghdad Iraq.




Good morning, my friends said, did you hear the big explosion ? this must be the new morning greeting in Baghdad. luckily or not, I missed that portion of the daily morning program. Throughout my trip, I tried to counter the ultra pessimism point of views which I faced with optimistic outlook. However, this is really difficult to genuinely sustain with constant stream of mistakes and screw-ups by the occupying power and by the corrupt government. the best employer in Iraq is the Iraqi government. to strip an entire staff of the ministry of health because of religious alliance, and because of working with a previous government, is but one example of adding more fuel to the existing fire and is a sure way to destroy all positive efforts others have contributed towards a stable and free Iraq.



Some of the stories that I hear reminded me of some of the examples in Jarred Diamond book, Collapse. Some of the basic resources a civilized society needs are not available. This is turning the have not(s) onto the have(s). Electricity, as everyone knows, maybe with the exception of the US government, is not available in an adequate fashion. so people pay monthly per amp to a local generator owner. Neighbors regularly get into quarrels about the payment and distribution of this highly desirable commodity. These actions are coming from people whom I have known to be educated and well to do. At least they used to be, and now they are feeling the pinch.

Imagine a person in a unfamiliar pitch-black room. with arms moving frantically looking for a light switch, a match, or anything to shed some light on what is around. if you can imagine that, you have a tiny idea what the civil society in Iraq is going through today in the new, occupied but democratic Iraq.

The person is Iraq civil society, the room is Iraq's future, and the light is the hope that is yet to be found. It has reached a point where hope comes and fades away more frequently than the electricity does in Baghdad. logically, there isn't a reason to be optimistic. the US has demonstrated a massive incapability, ignorance, and arrogance in managing the mess it has created. The Iraqi political scene is more decorated than the holiday tree at the Rockefeller center in NYC with slogans and banners of free, and prosperous Iraq. However, the political machine in Iraq has shown amazing ineptness at getting the simplest things people need not to mention the utilization of the country's wealth for personal use. Meanwhile the Iraqis are living day-to-day dodging bombs, explosions, and kidnappings, while looking for jobs and constant secure income. Most working people there have written off their lives and goals and only seeking an exit for their children out of this mess.



Headlines of articles from Al-Sabah newspaper.




Sept 22nd. 2005

- 40 million dollars were allocated by AL-Ja'fari to support pilgrimage to Najaf and Karbala

- Rapid growth in black market for gasoline and heating oil. every 100 liters bought from the government gas stations cost 10,000 Dinars, which is traded back on the black market for about 30,000 Dinars. Dealers in black market continue on doing that until they sell about 1000 liters daily. 1,500.00 Dinars is about $1. Prices for heating oil and gasoline increased 5 times its mentioned values causing the purchasing power of 10,000.00 Dinars to purchase 20 liters only.

Note : this is one of the reasons why in Baghdad today the average length of the waiting line for gasoline is about 2 miles. People that are in the waiting line sometimes wait over night until their turn is reached.

- ministry of trade to establish a contract to buy sugar from Iran for the amount of 400,000 tons.


Al-Sabah Sept 23rd, 2005

- Friday Market in Baghdad : A different sign that cannot be imitated. Markets for used clothes, animals and a third market prohibited for women!!!.

- how much oil can Iraq produce ? Oil production is expected to increase by 30,000 barrels a day. to 1.8 million barrels a day by next June.

Note: @ approximately $60.00 a barrel, Iraq's daily income from oil exports, theoretically, could be around 10 million dollars daily.

- Zakho district in Dihok is undergoing the drill of the first oil well, which is managed completely by the current government in Kurdistan.

Zakho, a district of Dihok providence in northern Iraq is undergoing it first oil well drill, which is managed by the government of Kurdish region, allegedly under the full knowledge of the central government in Iraq. Based on the new constitution that has not been implemented and ratified yet. The article states that "Negeer Van Barazani, relative of the president of Kurdistan, prime minister of Arbil, has said that the new constitution gives the Kurdish government the right to run the entire oil production operation and contract it out to whoever they wish". The article also mentions how the government in Kurdish region is planning on using the revenue of the oil exports to compensate the Kurds for the suffering they faced under the previous government.

Note : It cannot be any more clear than this that Iraq is being divided economically to full fill the greed and ambitions of radical ethnic groups in Iraq. I am sure this will also include buying weapons and re-enforcing the elements that strengthens the separation of the region from Iraq.

- death counter: violence claimed the lives of 1400 Iraqis in Nov 2005.

Wednesday, January 26, 2005

Iraq in October 2003




A Report from the Field


Zaid Albanna, EPIC Board of Directors
October 2003


In October 2003, EPIC board member Zaid Albanna returned to Baghdad to find his family home in ruins and the city he was born and raised in destroyed. His month long visit in Iraq revealed a frightening security situation and a failing “reconstruction” process.


Zaid friends shared tragic stories about the breakdown of law and order, the improper use of lethal force by coalition soldiers, and the growing violence of the insurgency. In Baghdad alone, violent deaths have doubled. And throughout Iraq, hundreds of U.S. soldiers have been killed and more than 9,000 have been medically evacuated.


Zaid encountered widespread unemployment as over half of Iraq’s labor force is out of work or under-employed. He witnessed the toll that years of tyranny, sanctions and war has taken on his homeland, leaving many Iraqis impoverished and completely dependent on food rations.

Read about Zaid’s journey back to his homeland, and discover the importance of bringing Peace to Iraq through Change at Home.







October 6-9: From Amman to Baghdad
October 10: Kidnappings and Hostile Takeovers
October 11: Theories from Furat and Bassim
October 12: Talking with Iraqi Police
October 13: The Worth of an Iraqi Civilians Life
October 14: The UN Moves Next Door
October 15: Iraq’s New Currency
October 16: Electricity Outages Abound
October 17: The Guard Dog is Released
October 18: U.S. Reconstruction - $1,000 Per Screwdriver
October 20-21: The Walls of Baghdad
October 22: CPA Surrounded
October 23: Privatization of Iraq
October 24: Searching for Hope
October 25: Situation in Al-Shawka
October 26: Departing Baghdad

October 6-9: From Amman to Baghdad


The trip to Baghdad started from Amman, Jordan on October 6 at 4 am. The road connecting Al-Roowaysha (the last city in Jordan) to Baghdad was safe. The signs of the awaiting conditions in Iraq started as we crossed the border. While driving through Jordan my eyes would follow the electric power lines parallel to the road. Once we crossed the border into Iraq the electric power lines ceased to exist. I could only see the tower structures without the power lines. As it turns out, power lines were stolen and stripped for their metal.

We were stopped three times on the road by the Iraqi rent-a-cops, who were trained by U.S. security firms, to make sure we were not carrying anything “bad”. I asked the driver if these guards were working around the clock. He replied that no, no one is crazy enough to do this work during the dark. I found out a week later that we were lucky making it in safely since some people we know entered Iraq a couple of days after we did. They were not stopped by any security forces but by highway gangs who robbed them of the money they were carrying.

We passed two U.S. military bases, as well as a big one across from Abu-Ghraib prison at the entrance to Baghdad. Arriving to the outskirts of Baghdad was a mild introduction to the actual devastation and suffering the Iraqis have endured. Traffic lights are on, but not working. The traffic police are there only for show; it seems they have no authority to execute the law, and only piss-off the citizens.

The trash collected from the streets of Baghdad is burned inside the city, replacing one health hazard by environmental pollution. Everywhere I looked, the cars were all beat up with patched bodies and different color parts. It reminded me of scenes from Cuba in the movie Buena Vista Social Club.

As we approached my home, my mom pointed out a known circle (Sahat Al-Wathiq) that I used to walk through to get to my high school. I remember the circle used to be full of tall trees. I could not believe my eyes: all the trees I remembered have been cut and the green has morphed to sand.

The big shock was when I got home. My house looked as if it was destroyed by a storm. It was sad to see. This was a true reflection of what has happened to the country as a whole.

A couple of good news items: the tap water seems to be fine (high in chlorine but good enough to drink). Bottled water is available to buy for those who can afford it. Most people still boil the tap water. I will have to find a neighborhood that is having some issues with water in order to put the filtration system that I brought to a good use. In addition, electricity seems more available now. It is still cut daily, but only for two hours.

I spent the first night chatting with some friends about the situation in Baghdad. You may have heard a story of U.S. soldiers shooting about six civilians or ex-military Iraqis. I have not checked the American news in the past 72 hours, and am not sure what you were told. One friend was at the scene and here is the story:

There was a line for the ex-military to collect their paychecks. One person broke through the payment line to get a better place. A U.S. soldier grabbed the person out of line and threw him out. A fight broke out between the two. A backup U.S. soldier started shooting his gun in the air. The quarrel dispersed.

Moments later, the same person came back to take an advanced spot in the payment line. The same soldier threw him out again. Another fight broke out, but this time the man’s friends got into quarrel and tackled the soldier. The backup soldier, who earlier had fired his gun in the air, decided this time to shoot at and kill all six Iraqis who were part of the fight.

This story is a good example of the security in the city, and the inability of the U.S. forces to conduct civil peacekeeping duties. Apache helicopters were regularly flying over my neighborhood at night. The general feeling, however, is that there is more security now relative to the first days after Baghdad fell to the Americans. Nevertheless, the current level of security is far from the level that people are seeking. The curfew now runs from midnight to 3 am, whereas it was between 11 pm to 4 am last week.

The next day, I took a cab to the office of one of the NGOs and met with the team there. After the meeting, I took a walk on Abi-Nuas street that is parallel to Dijlah (Tigris river)[1]. I walked by the Iraqi Communist Party Headquarters; everyone outside the office was equipped with handguns and machine guns.

Speaking of guns, the previous administration seems to have made an effort to distribute weapons to most tribes, churches, mosques, and even to schools. Everyone in Iraq is equipped with these weapons; including my house. The weapons are easy to obtain because they are abundantly available on the black market.

As I continued my walk on Abi-Nuas street, I passed by the Sheraton-Ishtar Hotel and then the Meridian-Palestine hotel (which was shelled during the invasion). Two huge concrete walls surround the hotels (I would not be surprised if they were imported from Israel). Then I walked all the way back to the National Theater.

The conditions on the streets are sad; the roads are dirty despite the money that is being paid to street cleaners ($3/day or 6000 Dinars/day). The roads and sidewalks are in horrible shape, as army tanks make regular rounds in the streets. It is common to see abandoned stores that now serve as homes for some families. I stopped by a store to buy a power strip, but after finding what I needed, the man in the store rejected my Iraqi Dinars claiming that they “looked fake”. There are many money exchangers on the streets that may be giving out counterfeit currency.

The local industry is being hurt by the tariff-free imports of goods, by the sidestepping of Iraqi companies for contract allocations, by the lack of security, and by the lack of electricity. Instead, the CPA and Bechtel are favoring other Arab and foreign companies over Iraqi ones.
I am starting to understand the general feeling here and it seems to map with the conflicting reports I have been hearing. Simply put, the entire population views this change as a potentially good one. However, if this change/dream does not materialize very soon, I fear the reality check for the people will be too hard. It is common knowledge that all the ministries are open now, but they do not have any power to enforce anything without the permission of the “President”, as Paul Bremer has been nicknamed in Baghdad.

A tank just passed by my house, now I can go to sleep.

The theory on the streets of Baghdad is: The reason the allied forces did not take Saddam out in 1991 is that they would have had to divide the profits with 26 other countries. In 2003, they only have to split with England.


October 10: Kidnappings and Hostile Takeovers


I spent the day visiting relatives and family, particularly those that I could not reach during the war. I am glad to say that they are all physically fine.

The UN section responsible for non-Iraqi refugees inside Iraq moved to the end of the street where my house is. Considering the recent attacks on the UN, this isn’t very comforting.

Saturday promises to be an interesting day. Already in the early morning, I can hear airplanes and gunfire from afar, along with the morning prayers in the background. Nearby gunshots have interrupted every night of my stay so far. The looting that was briefly covered in the U.S. media has now morphed into organized crime in Baghdad and its surroundings. Criminals study their targeted victims based on the 'potential' income they make. For example, the owner of a nearby supermarket (Aswaq Al-Wathiq) was kidnapped 2 weeks ago. The kidnappers asked for a ransom. Just yesterday, I saw a black banner with his name on it indicating he is missing.

Another form of crime is the increase in hostile business takeovers from the Christian minority by death threats. For example, a cousin of our neighbor who owned a convenience store in an area called 'Baghdad Al-Jideeda' received death threat letters that forced him to sell the shop and move elsewhere.

On a side note: one of our neighbors just acquired a whining dog. This is annoying the hell out of me.


October 11: Theories from Furat and Bassim


I took off on a mission to distribute some pictures of Iraqis taken by a friend. I took a taxi to the center of the city; the discussion with the driver, Furat, was political. As an Iraqi, he felt more comfortable now that the government has been changed, but could not help noting that the people who helped change the leadership in Iraq are the same ones that supported it for over 40 years.

Interestingly, he thinks that Saddam was a Zionist because he did everything to weaken the infrastructure of the country from economic to military aspects. In Furat's opinion, Saddam does not mean the Baath party. He favored the conditions in Iraq between 1974-1979. During that period, the country had an economic boom in all sectors. By 1979, Iraq had only 3 percent illiteracy by the UN standards. Furat expected the U.S. to help get rid of Saddam, and help bring Iraq back on its feet. He feels, however, that a big part of these expectations have not been met yet.

Bassim, a retired major in the Iraqi air force, spent about an hour or two talking with me about the situation and about the potential solutions. Bassim thinks that an initial military solution with a migration plan towards a civil democratic form of government is needed to fix all potential ethnic/religious conflicts. He feels that the U.S. is playing the 'where is Saddam?' game to distract attention from some of the current events that are designed to create conflicts between the religious groups in Iraq. He also recognizes that the tribes and the religious leaders in Iraq are waiting to see if the U.S. makes progress in its efforts to help Iraqis determine their own destiny. Bassim says the U.S. has six more months to show that it is successful. Not sure what will happen after that, but it does not sound good.

The stupid poodle is gone; I will sleep like a baby tonight.


October 12: Talking with Iraqi Police


The most frequent question I get here from friends and family is "Zaid, how do you find Baghdad?" So far, my answer has been, "I am still absorbing." Today was interesting since it became obvious that the longer I stay in Baghdad the more my impression will change.

In the morning, I went with friends to visit some police stations. The purpose of the visit was to inquire about the increase or decrease in security levels around Baghdad. We started out with the police headquarters of the Karkh area.[2] The Chief of the station is a major who received us in his office. He has 13 years of police experience. We enjoyed talking with him. Here are some of the observations discussed:

The police department leadership and the ministry of the interior in Iraq have no power. They cannot arrest and keep people in jail to be prosecuted. The Americans release outlaws arrested by the police force on the same day based on the ‘American’ process.

About 3000 police officers in this division have only 800 guns with no ammunition. The U.S. occupying force controls equipment purchases. One can get a gun from the black market in Baghdad for about $500 with ammunition. The cost of the same gun purchased by the U.S. is $2500 without ammunition. The guns purchased by the U.S. are different from what the police officers have used in the past. They are less safe and are the type used more by assassins. Safe use of these weapons will require about 3-6 months of training.

The placement of the prisoners is controlled by the U.S. Therefore, if the Iraqi police catch a criminal on a street in the Al-Karkh area, the U.S. might place him, and has done exactly that, in a prison in Basra. This renders prosecuting the criminal useless, since the local police do not have the authority nor the means to bring the prisoner back to Baghdad. This is because the old police structure linking all the cities in Iraq has been dissolved by the U.S. In the Al-Bayaa' area, for example, there is an estimate that the number of cases to be prosecuted per week were about 30 or so before the war. After the war, and for the past six months, the total number has been 17 only.

Unqualified U.S. soldiers are in control. The occupation Authority placed these soldiers for the sole purpose of protecting the police stations. These unqualified U.S. soldiers administer and control - rather than simply protect - some of the police stations. They force the Iraqi police to follow a diluted form of the American law system. Even a stronger representation of the American law system would not work in Iraq due to vast cultural and social differences.

The police station where we were meeting with the major was created as a result of a request made to the CPA. The major asked the CPA to provide 30 men, chosen by him, to help run the office. The CPA agreed but refused to provide protection without controlling the decision making process.

We left the Major’s office to get some tea. We went to a small 'gehhwa' (Iraqi coffee shop) around Al-Nasser circle. As we were sipping good Iraqi tea, two explosions occurred near Baghdad hotel six blocks away from us. The sound and the smoke were a wake up call to what the situation is really like in Baghdad.

As is known here, the CIA and the Israeli intelligence agency (Mossad) used the Sheraton Hotel as their headquarters at the start of the war. Then they moved to the Eagle Hotel, where a bomb explosion about a month ago forced them to leave for another hotel, the Baghdad Hotel. You could see the faces of the people around us change once the bomb exploded. The U.S. military vehicles were everywhere. The roads were blocked, and traffic was jammed.

There are many little wars happening here, and the average Iraqi avoids any area that has a U.S. presence since they are an open target to anyone that wants to do any damage. Our driver said that the scariest thing for him is to be stuck in traffic next to a U.S. military vehicle.

It is ironic how the U.S. accused the previous government of using civilians as human shields, while at the same time the U.S. military is now exposing the Iraqi civilians to more danger by creating an obvious presence in the heavily populated areas of Baghdad. In addition to that, once a U.S. military convoy is attacked, the convoy blindly opens fire 360 degrees that gets most civilians within proximity.

So the bomb did not stop us. I went to help some friends with translations, and then went home. I hope to visit some hospitals tomorrow. Based on a conversation my mom had today with a pharmacist friend, medicine has been available for the last six months, due to the large amounts of medicine stored by the government before the war. But now a new wave of medicine needs is appearing on the horizon.

I am not complaining, but the stupid electricity is still unavailable, since we are getting it 2 hours on and 3 hours off through out the freaking day. This means we cannot have the fridge on long enough to keep our food cool. In addition, the phone services are still unavailable in the 71 area code. Moreover, the water pressure is so bad that we need a water pump to send the water to the water tank on top of the house.[3]


October 13: The Worth of an Iraqi Civilians Life


These are more reports from neighbors on organized kidnapping and stealing, targeting those that are known to have money and those that work in the liquor business. I am working on translating a letter from Arabic to English to present to the U.S. military authority. The subject is the case of Mazen. Mazen was an innocent bystander who was shot by the occupation forces for no reason. The Americans have no due process for the native Iraqis. The alternative is to present petitions in English hoping that the Authority will hear their case (though most Iraqis speak only Arabic).

The occupation must quickly adopt a process to provide justice when U.S. soldiers vs. locals are involved. The current situation has neither the dimension of justice nor the American ideal of due process. Apparently, the worth of an Iraqi civilian’s life is $10,000 - this is the amount of money the CPA is willing to pay the affected families, if it decides the death was a mistake.

There have been a few more explosions, including one near the Al-Dawa party headquarters. There seem to be at least two patterns to the bombings. One is against U.S. establishments (example: the Baghdad hotel attack on CIA headquarters referred to above) and another that falls under the divide and conquer strategy. The theory of the day in the streets of Baghdad: Eyewitnesses state that a missile passed by their houses from Baghdad’s airport on the way to the UN building seconds before its destruction last month.


October 14: The UN Moves Next Door


It is common to hear blasts similar in strength to the one that hit the Baghdad Hotel throughout the city. It is also common to hear machine gun fire late at night. One typically does not know where these explosions are taking place, since everyone is afraid of checking stuff out. I heard two blasts today but was unable to see any smoke from the roof of my house.

Tonight was interesting for two reasons:

The first reason is that there were relatively frequent trips made by U.S. jets from the south to the north/north west. I hope that the next few weeks will tell us.

The second is that throughout the past week, a new building at the end of our street is being used by a UN branch that is responsible for non-Iraqi refugees in Iraq. Therefore, everyone in the neighborhood is anticipating another UN tragedy.

These fears were confirmed tonight when we were stopped by a U.S. tank and a military vehicle for a random check, when we tried to pass by the building on our way home. Now consider this: there was no electricity, no streetlights, and we could have easily missed the checkpoint. This would have resulted in the soldiers firing at us just for trying to get to our house.


October 15: Iraq’s New Currency


Today tanks and hummers were everywhere, near almost every bank and school. The claim was that there was a threat to all schools and banks, since today marked the introduction of the new currency. Naturally, nothing happens when it is so expected. Still, schools were all closed and classes were cancelled.


October 16: Electricity Outages Abound


Met with some neighbors who are in the Iraqi army, I am looking forward to this week where I can stop by and hear stories that were not covered in any press. The myth of improvement in living conditions is just that, a myth. Someone has figured out that by changing the schedule at which the electricity is cut off, they can give the indication that situation is improving. So today, we get 2 hours on and 4 hours off; before that we had 3 hours on and 3 hours off. Tomorrow we may get 4 hours on and 2 off, so that we will hope that things are getting better, but they are not.

I scheduled appointments with some school administrators in the area for next week. I also hope to speak with someone about the unemployment conditions next week.


October 17: The Guard Dog is Released


A common wish among Baghdadis is for cloudy days in this hot weather. Today was a cloudy day. When electricity went off this evening, I heard bullets being fired in my street. My mom quickly went into 'protection mode'. She locked all four locks on each door. She lit candles and placed them strategically inside the house. She released the guard dog from his leash. I went up to the roof to see if there was anything happening in the street, but I quickly realized that I could be an easy target, so I went back inside. I am quickly reaching the conclusion that this is not a 'better' condition for Iraqis here, and Bush and Bremer need a reality check.

Another theory on the street: Unconventional weapons accomplished the quick victory at the Saddam airport.


October 18: U.S. Reconstruction - $1000 Per Screwdriver


Brought to you by Enron, “we know how to turn the lights off for you”. Power is still not back on and phones are still out. This sucks.

Security is still a dream for most Baghdad residents who commonly hear explosions and gunshots. One sees traffic police officers around the streets doing one of two things:

1) watching cars break the traffic laws (like going against traffic on a one-way street); or,
2) acting as traffic lights (since most of the lights are not working properly either).

It is worth noting that this crazy congestion is partially due to roadblocks set up by the military forces. These cause the traffic to be rerouted into fewer pathways that quickly become swollen.

A little more on safety: parents still wait for kids outside schools, and some parents are still keeping their kids out of school. You can feel safe driving a new car in Baghdad if you are heavily armed or you have just stolen the new car. The kidnapping of known wealthy people or their relatives for tens of thousands of dollars happens on a regular basis. Yonan, the son of the owner of the famous Abu-Yonana hamburger place in Baghdad, was kidnapped this week and a ransom of $100,000 has been asked of the family.

Crime, as I stated earlier is getting more organized and targeted. For example, my cousin has an electric supply store in the Karada; he often has to get his goods and parts from a distributor in the Bab-Al-Shargee. His regular trips there with money for purchases make him a target for looting and stealing.

He described one incident over there when a number of merchants had their goods out on the sidewalks of the street. A few thieves shot a number of rounds into the air, causing everyone to think that there was a gunfight in progress. People started fleeing the area, leaving all the goods on the sidewalks available for the thieves to collect. My cousin takes random paths every time he needs to go to Bab-Al-Shargee. This is during daytime. There are no credit cards that he can use instead of cash.

I often hear a comparison between the situation now and the situation after the 1991 gulf war. Most people here will tell you that in 1991 the government was able to restore most damaged infrastructure in 45 days under Saddam's government, while it is taking the U.S. over 6 months. The rebuilding by occupation situation is becoming less of a favorite and anti-occupation feelings are growing mainly due to promises that have not been met (i.e. restored security, electricity, water, phone, improved economy).

There is so much help needed here I feel ashamed for taking only a month off to be here. I met with some schools that are undergoing renovation efforts. Well, let me rephrase. The renovation efforts are proving to be more like the Pentagon style projects that we often hear about. For example, projects allocating and paying $1000 for a screwdriver.

In one case, in Al-Sassiriyah, a school is being renovated and painted for a price tag between $40,000 and $60,000. The contractors are Spanish or Italian companies, using non-Iraqi workers. The problem here is that the locals are watching this and wondering why so much money is being paid, when it can be done locally for about a tenth of the cost! It is obvious that the Iraqis are in for sticker shock when they find out how much deeper in debt the country will be when the reconstruction game is done with.

There are some genuine efforts being made by a few NGOS on the ground in Baghdad to help with the situation. However, the problems are much bigger than what the NGOS can handle at this time. I met with a few of them that are working hard at improving things on the local level, by conducting small projects. They asked me to “please put a call out to all the Iraqis you know abroad, that they need to start chipping in to help.” I hope a more formal request will be circulating soon.

As for NGOs to contribute to, I am still working on compiling that info. The CPA has created a complicated process for Iraqi NGOs to be certified. This is partly because the concept of (non-religious) Iraqi NGOs did not truly exist before. I will update the list on that. It is urgent that the Iraqi Diaspora reaches out to their families, old friends, and the entire street they were from in Iraq. One does not need an NGO for that, and any positive effort will increase the hope level for the people in Iraq.


October 20-21: The Walls of Baghdad


On the night of the 20th, we heard five big explosions but no one knew where the strikes occurred. This is becoming a common thing. On the night of the 21st one big bombing sound was heard, again no knowledge where it was. I am not sure the Iraqi news network is keeping track of all this; maybe they are, but the news is being broadcast when the electricity is off.

You may have heard that the food rationing (Oil for Food Program) might be terminated by the end of this year. If that happens, with the prices of food in Iraq going up, expect more violence and more desperado acts, since there are still many people depending on the rations to live (the guesstimated number is 60% of the population).

The rainy winter in Baghdad will be bringing some interesting and smelly sewage problems in many parts of the city. The rainy season starts in November and goes until the end of February.

China's Great Wall competition: the new government organizations, hotels that house foreign nationals, and other institutional buildings are now surrounded by 15-18 feet high concrete walls. These are situated about 24-48 feet away from the main entrances of these buildings and extend out into the streets. The walls are affecting car traffic on the main streets and are forcing pedestrians to walk right next to the traffic. This exposes pedestrians to the crazy drivers in Baghdad. If there is time, I hope to figure out how close the collective lengths of these walls are to the Great Wall of China.

More street theory of the day: The airport victory happened in two stages. After the first U.S. penetration of the airport, the Iraqi forces had them caught in a firetrap since the airport was surrounded by oil/gasoline. The U.S., considering this to be an unconventional use of military resources, fired a form of WMD on the Iraqi army in and near the airport, melting most of them. After that, the airport was closed for two months for clean up!


October 22: CPA Surrounded


Again, the usual: bombing sounds, gunfire, no electricity, increases in gas prices, more concrete walls, and 77-company. 77-company is a Turkish company with an office in Arbil, Iraq. They have been supplying the CPA and the military with large, about 15-18 foot long concrete blocks. I touched on these walls earlier.

Well, the walls are growing in length, and it may be a fun idea to try to extend these walls to the great wall of the China. More seriously though, each of these blocks has an estimated price tag of $600, and there are thousands of them. The entire CPA palace in Baghdad is surrounded by these blocks, not to mention hotels, embassies, ministries, police stations, etc. I wonder if this is accounted as a part of the 7-8 billion dollars of aid from the U.S. to Turkey. Moreover, I wonder if the 7-8 billion aid dollars are added to the Iraqi debt.


October 23: Privatization of Iraq


Today, I met with some representatives of the Iraqi telecommunications company. It is sad to see how existing Iraqi organizations are being ignored as a part of the reconstruction efforts. For example, the Iraqi telecommunications company was not allowed to bid on the mobile project that is going to invade Iraq in the next months. Instead, the contract was given to Kuwaiti and Egyptian companies that have an Iraqi company front.

Look up article 12 of the CPA mandate, which, according to the source, gives the CPA the right to privatize certain aspects of Iraq - if not all. The budgets of most ministries are controlled by the CPA, which is not allocating funds in a timely fashion to maintain normal operations. I happened to overhear a phone conversation that amounted to the fact that August funds had still not been cashed, because there was no CPA account to cash the checks against. On top of all that, the CPA’s own budget is secret.


October 24: Searching for Hope


I spent this day re-energizing my hope by trying to find a glimpse of hope through family and friends. I must say one gets more sharp impressions of the situation through these social gatherings. I spent about 2-3 hours trying to convince my cousin that technology is not what makes a society and that a hi-tech society has many issues as well.

One cannot ignore the thirst for safety, security, and stability when conversing with Iraqis. Something sad and dangerous is recognized in Iraqi society and the oppressed Arab societies in general. This 'thing' is an impression that Arabs are less capable, have no potential, or even hope of creating a productive, stable society.

The lack of a role model for open Arab society seems to be one of the reasons for that. Another reason is the West’s attitude in extending assistance; the perfect example is the CPA’s total control of the affairs in Iraq and the lack of will to trust the locals with any task.

I think this is also a great opportunity for the Arab, and specifically Iraqi, Diaspora to make a positive contribution toward their societies of origin. The people of Baghdad need emotional support as much as they need expertise and financial support. A major dilemma is that the CPA has not shown good intentions towards the Iraqi public, and the only possible way to help the public is through the CPA. But the minute an Iraqi cooperates with the CPA, regardless of intentions, he/she is labeled as a potential American agent. More on that later….

Oh, I almost forgot the IMN – the U.S. backed Iraqi Media Network. Wow, what can I say about the new voice of Iraq? I am talking news only here, since I am not sure what value the entertainment portions of the IMN programs hold to the average Iraqi now. First things first: the name IMN (in English) actually appears as the station logo throughout their programs. This is not bad, except for the fact that the Arabic name of IMN does not appear anywhere. Second, the news focuses on highlighting positive CPA news and not on the urgent local issues such as security, bombings, electricity. Schools were touched upon but not in details.


October 25: Situation in Al-Shawka


I visited several homes that are housing poor families in the Al-Shawka area in Baghdad. The section I visited has approximately 13,000 families. Most of these families live in poverty; one of the many upcoming problems that these families are getting ready to face is the rainy season in Baghdad. Sewage systems are backed up and overflow into the homes. Most of these homes have washing rooms and kitchens in the same small corner, and with the rise of the gas prices after the war, they have shifted their cooking and heating from gas to oil. Several of these families are not able to pay their rent, so locals and neighbors are chipping in to help. But naturally that is not enough.


October 26: Departing Baghdad


I spent my time trying to pack and finalize some contacts with friends. Getting ready to leave was hard, especially on the Iraqis that are living there who cannot obtain visas outside Iraq now. It was like leaving a friend in-need. Naturally, packing in the dark with the silly electricity going on and off was a challenge. I must say that I will miss the match and the candle that I constantly carried in my pocket in case the electricity went out.

On our way out of Baghdad, we passed by the Al-Rashid hotel (U.S. headquarters in Baghdad where Paul Wolfowitz was staying) just a little before the attacks started that morning. I was filming our Baghdad exit and I could have caught the attack on tape.

More theory – from the streets of America: The war is over, reconstruction of Iraq is going well, and security is fine.

Reality – from the streets of Baghdad: The war is not over, reconstruction is failing and security is not fine.


[1] Dijlah (Tigris) is one of the two large rivers that run through Iraq which forms the Mesopotamia. The other river is called Al-Furat (Euphrates) which does not run through Baghdad. Iraq is full of several other sizable but smaller rivers like: Dayala, AlZab AlKaber, AlZab AlSaqher, etc.
[2] Baghdad has two main areas: East of the Tigris River (Dijlah) which is called Risafa; and, west of the river the area that is called Karkh.
[3] Because of water pressure fluctuations over the years, most homes in cities of Iraq have a water tank on top of the roof that that ensure continued availability with reasonable pressure.






Iraq in October 2004


An October 2004 Personal Visit to Baghdad: Impressions & Disappointments


Introduction

A year has passed since I last visited Iraq. It is now two years since the onset of the illegal occupation of Iraq. It is clear if I have to rely on the US media to provide a non-biased , fair, detailed news suitable for a decent humans, I will have to wait until the ‘second coming’. I needed to see for myself. In October 2004, I headed towards Baghdad where I spent only 4-5 days.
I needed more than a month after I returned to process my emotions before I was in a state able to write my impressions about my journey to Baghdad. The trip was short but vivid enough to reflect the horrible conditions of my home country under the US occupation. I returned from Baghdad angry. I see less hope for peace and conciliation now than I did a year ago.

Shattered Hope

I held back from writing immediately, hoping for a change in the US administration that would trigger a more positive approach in the way the US is handling the situation in Iraq. Now that the elections are over, it is clear that the Iraqis will face further confused US policy and more violence. The US accelerates its robbery of the resources as it continues to ignore its responsibilities under International Law. It persists in its neglect of the civil affairs of the country. The so-called interim Iraqi government is a façade. The US embassy in Baghdad, directed by the White House, calls all the shots. It decides on budget allocations for ministries and it approves their expenditures.
So what experiences did I have in those 4-5 days that left such a bitter impression of the situation? Here is a partial list of events and observations:
- The near death experience of a nephew while attending school
- The daily humiliation Iraqis face constantly
- A missile fell on my neighbor’s home
- Daily widespread kidnappings
- Attacks by the US forces and its Iraqi trained forces on the civilians under the claim of fighting "insurgents".
The list is too depressingly large to focus on one thing. There is also the continuous neglect of the Iraqis lives, their culture, security, and the mounting unemployment epidemic. The inner fabric of the Iraqi family life is forced to face higher levels of tensions because of the current US-created conditions.

In contrast with last year, instead of moving around and collecting reports from various offices and organizations, this year I wanted to see what it is like to be a part of a family that has been living in Baghdad during the year and a half since the start of the conflict. Well, the picture proved to be direr than I imagined.

I started my trip by flying from Amman into Baghdad international airport. In Amman, there were about 30 to 50 workers from ٍSouth East Asia, under the management of our so-called brothers the Jordanians, who were heading towards Baghdad, courtesy of the continuing ‘no-Iraqis-allowed’ reconstruction policy imposed on Iraq.

Commercial flights from Amman on Jordanian airlines are operating. The trip costs about $800 for a round trip ticket. The road from Baghdad's airport to the checkpoint has road signs labeling the area as a ‘war zone’. The US authorities is unable secure the road and fighting could breakout at anytime. In short, cross at your own peril!

The flight took about one hour and forty minutes. The ride from the airport to my friends’ house lasted almost 3 hours. Normally this trip takes about 25 minutes. The random closures of main roads in the city seem to be the thing to do these days. The roads closure causes congestion and actually places Iraqi civilians in harms way. But then again who is counting that? Definitely not the US administration, nor the US-appointed Iraqi government led by ex-CIA assets.

Promises … Promises

After the warm welcomes upon my arrival, and the news exchanges about friends and relatives, the discussion turned to the current situation. No one understands why the US would let the situation in Iraq deteriorate to levels that were not experienced even during the rule of Saddam Hussein.
To the majority of Iraqis it seems that the promises made by the US administration to make Iraq a better place are simply lies that were used to con the population into a wait-and-see mode while slowly robbing, and the dismantling any supporting structure, that helped Iraqis lead a normal life. Nevertheless, up until now, there does not seem a satisfactory answer to the question "why?”

Schools

Schools had started about two weeks back but my friends were hesitant to send their kids to school due to the lack of security. An average family has a decision to make:
Submit to the threats of the ministry of education to expel students that do not show up to school or take a risk on the children's safety by sending them to schools which are continuously threatened by the resistance (commonly referred to in the US as the insurgents).

Back to the schools situation, so the next day my friends decided to send their child to school. In the morning, around 8 am, they walked him to the door of the school, made sure the child entered safely. As soon as the parents turned around, they witnessed a mortar shell falling on a government building 50 feet across the street from their son's school.

Parents in Baghdad are facing this daily reality. What makes it worse, none of the authorities, be they Iraqi or American, have taken the time to educate the students, teachers, and administrators on the basics of civil defense if a school or an area close to it comes under attack. The basics of managing Iraqi crowds facing an emergency or an attack are not even being addressed in any form. Defense and management of civilian population to avoid dangers is a non-existing discipline in today’s Iraq.

Security

A year ago, security was an issue that the US failed to address. Well, the US is still failing at addressing this issue. Last year I heard about 2-4 explosions a day, this time I could easily hear 10 to 15 every single day. These vary from car bombs to mortar shells. In fact, the security is so broken that car bombs are being found inside the 'US protected' green zone. No NGO organization of those I worked with last year is still on the ground in Baghdad. The rate of kidnappings has increased many folds. Although the international focus has only been on the non-Iraqi kidnapped, the fact is that there are more Iraqis who have been kidnapped and targeted. The reasons they are targeted are either for money or because they are cooperating with the occupation forces.

In addition to all that, there is the new targeting of doctors, medical students, and other professionals. Doctors and medical students are flat out being kidnapped and killed. So where is the secure and democratic Iraq? Please send an email to President Bush asking for answers.

Services

Electricity is just as irregular as it was before, and by 8 pm, all streets are empty. Be it security, jobs, electricity, or any general infrastructure component necessary for a developed society, none is available in a complete and reliable way to most of the people in Iraq. During my visit in 2003, I used to discuss these issues with my friends and relatives there and the common response I used to get was the Americans would take care of these problems. The people in Iraq, a year ago, had absolute hope in the promises the Americans were chanting. This year the story is vastly different, the American credibility is joked about and the realization of the sinking conditions in the country is becoming more sharp and vivid. This is causing the people to re-evaluate their future in Iraq without any options provided for them.
A sense of desperation is casting its shadow on the country. This is causing a drain in the resources of educated people and at the same time increasing the membership of the resistance. This begs the question which is heard commonly on the streets in Baghdad, is the real plan of the US to destroy and disintegrate Iraq? Has the administration been lying, again, about their plans for Iraq?

Resistance

Here is a factoid the media in the US keeps missing. There is no such thing as ‘insurgents’, there is only resistance… yes, resistance. The resistance, even though de-centralized and seemingly disorganized, is focused on one goal: To drive the Americans and their appointed Iraqi government out of Iraq.
The resistance has been uniform in its attack on the Iraqi government model as was proposed by the US at the start of the conflict. A friend brought this to my attention and it seems logical and consistent, so far, with the events that have been taking place. The proposed model was to establish an Iraqi government that is backed up with the support of international and local NGOs and the United Nations. Well, the UN was placed out of the picture about a year and a half ago, The last NGO just recently exited Iraq, and the US backed Iraqi government is losing support and momentum as their disorganization and public news of their corruption is sweeping the country. While the US forces are constantly under attack by the resistance. This situation is adding more hopelessness and desperation among Iraqis who will rally behind the resistance after a first major attack on the occupied forces.

Postscript

Can this situation be corrected? The answer depends on the intention of the US administration. So far, it has shown little, if none, of positive intentions towards Iraq and its people. Once, and if, that changes there will be a need for more troops, more money, and more international support to fix what has been broken and return to the true road of rebuilding Iraq. Until then, Iraqis will go to sleep every night listening to the sounds of cluster bombs dropping on various Iraqi cities and neighborhoods in a failed attempt to stop the ghosts of Al-Zarqawi, Al-Qaeda, and whatever other invention the US administration can use to justify its negligence, abrogation of its responsibilities under International Law, and seemingly widespread political stupidity.